The booster can request additional pressure assistance from the pump if something goes wrong, so the pressure signals will surely have to be faked on CAN amongst everything else. What remains to be seen is how independent this module can perform without the abs pump (actually) being present. 1BE is a status matrix of some kind (including the User Braking bit) while E7 from what I recall is maybe the pedal position both desired and actual.į-CAN "A":1D5 again appears to be a status matrix (for faults?) while 686 is hopefully some kind of firmware/hardware version announcement (or perhaps VIN?) at first glance it seems to cycle through an index of some sort. A basic definition of 1BE is already merged into opendbc listed as BRAKE_MODULE. With no other traffic, I am seeing just two individual frames being sent on each can bus.į-CAN "B": 1BE and E7 are on the primary F-CAN which all the major ADAS modules are on. I got everything except the travel sensor rigged up this morning and looked at both can busses. I'm familiar with the CAN systems on these Honda cars and have been working with them as part of comma.ai's openpilot since 2017 I'm a moderator on the comma discord.
I too recently picked up an iBooster from a 2019 Accord. So, if I do use it I'd have to create some kind of splitter or manifold, and now I'm wondering to what degree this was engineered into my original master cylinder so that one failed brake line doesn't lose all braking power to that half of the car.Hey all. I think my car's original master cylinder has 4 ports. I know the end result of a brake booster is just a plunger that pushes on the master cylinder, so, mechanically that's not challenging. I don't know enough about what goes on in there to know how different they might be. I'm not sure if I'm going to use this master cylinder, or take the original off of my vehicle and then mechanically adapt it to this booster. So, I guess I have to shop for connectors now, damnit.
IBOOSTER GEN 2 FREE
no wire stubs, but a free master cylinder (they probably never sell them and it's extra time and cost to remove it). I was told wire stubs was probably fine, but no, master cylinder is sold separately.Īnd then what I got was. I asked for the wire stubs and said I wouldn't be opposed if the master cylinder came with it, but I didn't want to pay extra for it.
IBOOSTER GEN 2 PLUS
I paid $55 USD for mine plus shipping (none within 500 miles of me, in Canada, but lots out east), which was a fairly common low price. Make sure after you're done, in the upper right, you select "all interchange parts", so it'll find compatable years, not let you be overly prescriptive with that exact year if the parts are the same: Mine came off a 2018 CRV.įor Americans, here's an interchange search (bit stubborn, you can sort by price descending, but can't flip it to ascending, so you have to go to the last page). Unless my mind's playing tricks, I can't orient mine to match the EVcreate one, stuffs just in different places. However, EVcreate seems to know this, and apparently there's a main tank neither of us have, that's connected to this baby tank with a hose? I wish I'd gotten a normal tank than this hokey double-tank, but, oh well, I didn't even pay for the master cylinder or the tank.Ģ - I think our black box is on the wrong opposite side (or the whole thing is rotated upsidedown at construction).
The iBooster is a black box that uses electricity rather than vacuum to keep your calf muscle from over developing and can be found in half a dozen different vehicles, you can get it from a Te$la and pay more or get the exact same thingie from a Honda and pay less, it also comes in two generations this write up will focus on Gen 1 and I will do a separate one for Gen 2
If you have done any research on the topic of anything iBooster than chances are you discovered the wonderful resource that is EVCreate and are familiar with Lars' work and write up, by no means am I trying to replace that or say that this is more better, this is actually all based on his work and I am just someone who is going to plagiarize, sorry, follow his instructions and add pictures, videos, and most definitely bad humor to the process One of the things that goes away with an EV conversion is vacuum, and that really sucks when it comes to brakes, or wait, it doesn't and that's the problem, there are a couple ways to solve this problem, among them is ditching your current tried and true and reliable system for something more exciting and shall we say modern - aka the iBooster
0 kommentar(er)
